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Helping
Your New PON Adjust To Your Home
1. Set up a schedule and follow it consistently. ALWAYS feed, water, walk, socialize,
etc., your dog at the same time. Like the rest of us, dogs feel
much more comfortable if they know what to expect. Follow this
schedule for at least 4 to 6 months, as it will take the dog
some time to feel "at home". Consistency also makes
potty training a LOT easier as the PON's system will respond
more reliably to a set schedule.
2. Be consistent. Not
just with the schedule, but with everything you do with your
dog. Decide on the rules the dog will live by and then stick
to those rules. Dogs learn much more quickly and behave much
better if you are consistent in your actions and expectations.
Consistency must start the minute you get the dog home. Everyone
in the household needs to agree on the rules for the dog, how
those rules will be taught and how they will be enforced. This
means that you will need to be prepared for the dog BEFORE he
comes home. Be fair to the dog -- don't get him on the spur of
the moment. Be ready for him. Dogs don't just walk in the front
door and say to themselves "Oh...there's the potty".
They need to be trained where to relieve themselves even if they
are already housebroken. A new house means new rules and you
MUST TEACH HIM the rules.
3. Don't get angry. Anger
doesn't teach, especially with a PON. It tends to make the PON
confused and stubborn. PON's love to please their owners and
you will get the best response by treating your PON with kindness.
Deal with disobedience by using quick, matter-of-fact corrections.
Don't get your emotions involved. Many problem behaviors are
not the result of the dog's attempt "to get even" but
rather a result of being bored, lonesome, frightened or having
learned to get attention by some undesirable means.
4. Pack leader. A
leader is clear, concise, consistent. PONs are extremely intelligent
and learn quickly, they need and want to have a pack leader.
If you don't assert your right to that position a PON will naturally
and gladly move into the leadership role. That means that the
sofa is his, the garbage is his, the Thanksgiving turkey is his,
and the new pair of shoes you just bought is his. In short, he
is in control. Just because he is adorable and makes you laugh
doesn't mean you should not correct him the second he does something
wrong. Letting a PON do something once in his/her mine means
its OK to keep doing it forever because nobody told me not to.
Leaders don't come when called. Leaders may bark when and how
long they want. Leaders may bite. Think about it..
Often common behavior problems
are caused by the dog's assertion of leadership rights over at
least some members of the family. If you are not familiar with
"pack leadership" as it pertains to the family dog
and training, read "Is Herbert There? A Survival Guide for
Pet Owners", by Animal Behavior Consultant, Terry Jester.
5. Enroll in Training Classes. Pet Smart offers many kinds of classes
from puppy socialization classes, to clicker training and advanced
obedience classes and their instructors are experienced in all
facets of dog ownership. Training
classes help you communicate with your dog. Learning to obey
when there are lots of other dogs and people around helps build
confidence in both the dog and owner. Owners who work with their
dogs find that the mental exercise is just as important as physical
exercise for keeping the dog from becoming bored.
It is a proven fact that people
who put in the effort to obedience train their dogs and maintain
the training have fewer problems with their dogs. An added bonus
is the working bond that develops between the dog and the owner
when they spend time training together.
6. Praise.
Praise is the reward the dog receives for obeying your command.
There are some simple rules for giving praise/rewards:
A) Make the reward immediate.
Praise delayed = praise denied.
B) Reward the dog only for obedience. He doesn't get any praise
without earning it.
C) Praise should be short-term. Only a few seconds of patting
is enough.
D) While some trainers discourage the use of food as the primary
type of reward, it can be a very useful tool when training most
PONs who are usually very food-motivated.
7. Be positive. Tell
the dog what you want him to do instead of what you don't want.
It is easier for the dog to understand one positive command (like
"down") instead of a series of negative commands (don't
chase the cat, don't jump off on the sofa, don't bark). Being
positive enforces the idea that you are the leader because you
give and enforce commands.
A) Giving commands gives definite
direction.
B) Obedience earns a reward (praise) for the dog.
C) It puts you in control.
Let him be a dog. Enjoy him,
train him, have fun with him. Do not expect him to make decisions.
That's your job -- you're the leader. Expect him to act like
a dog -- nothing more, but certainly nothing less. Dogs are intelligent,
energetic and very adaptable. Given the right training and being
respected for the qualities that have made them "man's best
friend" for thousands of years, dogs can become very good
companions and valued members of the household. Without training,
proper care, or an understanding of how dogs think, feel and
react, these four-footed creatures can become problems to both
owner and neighborhood, and not give the pleasure that good training
can create.
Crate
Training
by
Karen Willson
Dogs in the wild are naturally
den animals. They like their own spot to feel secure and protected.
A crate, if used properly, makes a great substitution. If you
make crate training an enjoyable experience, your dog will adapt
to it and even learn to enjoy it! The key is not to abuse its
use. I very, very, rarely leave my dogs in their crates for more
than 3 hours. Because of this, I've never had any difficulty
getting my dogs into their crates. They have learned (on their
own!) to head for their crates whenever I tell them I'm leaving.
They also go in all by themselves periodically throughout the
day for naps or to get away from noisy children or each other.
Crate training is indispensable
for these reasons:
- It keeps the
puppy out of trouble when you aren't there with him to keep him
safe. Few people have the
time or energy to follow a puppy around the house during it's
every waking moment. But that's exactly what you would have to
do to prevent him from chewing carpet, gnawing on furniture,
getting entangled in drapery cords, chewing on electrical cords
and the like. Keep him and your house safe by putting him in
a crate.
- It speeds up
the housebreaking process. Dogs
do not like to soil their "home". You can use this
basic instinct to your advantage by using a crate to housebreak
your dog.
- Traveling. If you ever take your dog on an airplane
he must be in a crate (unless, of course, he's a puppy who can
travel with you up front). When you take him in the car, unless
you buckle him in a harness, he should be in a crate. He cannot
balance himself when you make abrupt stops and could end up flying
into a window and seriously injuring himself. If you ever have
to stay overnight in a hotel with your dog, it is usually required
to crate him when you are out of the room so he will not destroy
it or run away if the maid opens the door to clean.
- Its much easier
to crate your dog when you have a houseful of guests or children.
Then you don't have to make
sure the dog isn't jumping or licking a guest who doesn't appreciate
it or constantly supervising so a child doesn't pull his fur
or ears. PONs may also find great delight in herding a group
of children around the house which definitely isn't their idea
of having a good time.
Start your crate training as
soon as you bring your puppy home. They can be purchased at pet
stores, some major department stores or through mail order catalogs
and usually cost about $30 and up depending on the type you buy.
Keep in mind that if you're using the crate on an airplane it
must be airline approved. Never use a metal crate in the car.
More than one dog has been impaled or horribly entangled in one
should you be involved in a severe car accident. Plastic crates
are cleaned easily but are not collapsible like metal ones so
this may be a consideration. There are also some alternative
kinds of crates available which are very nice but can be very
expensive. A soft-sided crate is almost like a miniature screen
room for your dog; however, it is not a good choice for a PON
who doesn't like being crated and tries to escape by pawing or
chewing on it.
Buy a crate that's big enough
for the dog to move around and lie down in when he is full grown.
The top should be 2-4" above his shoulders and 2" from
the dog's rump when full grown. Then partition it for use when
you bring your puppy home. Leave just enough space for the puppy
to be able to lie down. Too much space allows puppy to potty
in one area and lie in another. Put the crate in the room the
family uses most so he will not feel left out when he's in it.
When you move to a different room, bring it with you, particularly
at bedtime. If puppy can see you nearby he will settle down to
sleep much faster.
Begin to accustom your puppy
to it's crate by putting some treats under a towel or blanket
while puppy is watching. Allow puppy to go in and get the treat.
While he's in there, praise him, "Good puppy". You
can also throw a toy in there to retrieve and then praise again,
"Good puppy". After you do this awhile, close the crate
door when he goes in for a few minutes. If the puppy is quiet
while he's in there tell him, "Good puppy" let him
out, and give him a treat. If he starts complaining, ignore him
until he is quiet and then praise, "Good puppy", let
him out, and give him a treat. Never let him out while he's complaining
or you'll be reinforcing this unwanted behavior. When it's time
to feed puppy, put his dish in the crate so he'll also associate
his crate with the pleasure of feeding time. Praise him for eating
inside. After he's grown accustomed to eating inside, you can
close the door while he's in there. Then let him out and praise
him when he's done. Next time leave him in there a bit longer
after he's finished, let him out, and praise him. If you make
this fun for puppy he will learn he has nothing to fear from
being inside. Gradually increase the amount of time puppy stays
locked in his crate. Start with 5 minutes. When he's quiet, let
him out, praise him and give him a treat. (Don't forget to put
an especially good treat inside to get him to go in too!) Then
go to 10 minutes or so. Try leaving the room for a minute, return
to him for a bit, and then if he's still quiet let him out, praise
him, and give him a treat. Keep increasing the time he stays
in the crate and the amount of time you're out of the room while
he's in the crate. Remember, lots of praise when you let him
out and give him a treat. When he stays quietly in his crate
for 30 minutes or so while you're out of sight, he's ready for
you to take short trips and eventually longer trips away from
home to run an errand. Congratulations you're puppy's now crate
trained!
Biting/Mouthing
First of all
one must realize that normal
puppy behavior includes biting and mouthing. Puppies don't have
hands so they use their mouths to explore their world. It is
through play with their mother and littermates that a puppy learns
to control the force of their biting. Here is a typical scenario:
A puppy runs up to its mom to play and bites her too hard. Mom
then squeals her distress. This catches the puppy by surprise
and the puppy usually stops a minute. The puppy decides to bite
mom again and this time mom really lets out a cry. She may even
bear her teeth and growl at the puppy to get her point across.
Then mom turns and runs away, completely ignoring her pup if
it should approach her for further play. The puppy eventually
learns the message mom is teaching it; if you can't play nice
with me I don't want to play with you at all! If the puppy won't
take no for an answer and continues to bug mom for play, mom
gives an especially nasty growl and using her teeth she grabs
the puppy by the scruff of the neck and shakes him. She will
continue to shake him until the puppy gives up and relaxes his
body while keeping perfectly still. In this way the puppy is
telling mom that he agrees that she is boss in dog language.
Thus mom is establishing dominance over her pup. Sometimes if
a pup is really out of control its mom may knock the puppy over
with her paw and pin it to the ground. She may even growl at
the puppy or pinch it with her teeth until it squeals but does
not hurt him. Just like the first instance, she only lets go
of the puppy when he completely relaxes and lies still. Then
the puppy is free to run off.
Now lets apply this same principle
to teach our puppy not to bite humans.The first time your puppy
bites you let out a good loud OUCH! Make it clear to your puppy
you are very distressed. Completely ignore your puppy for a few
minutes. Turn away from your puppy and don't play with him, talk
to him or give him any attention at all. If he insists that you
play with him and won't leave you alone, grab him by the scruff
of the neck and give him a good shake. At the same time make
a low growling noise in a deep voice. Don't be afraid to sound
very menacing. If the puppy just won't give up, and/or his behavior
starts to escalate every time you attempt to use this correction,
pick him up so that he is facing you, look in his eyes and give
him a fierce "NO" . When he stops his struggling and
looks away he has gotten the message that you are the boss. Tell
him "good boy" and put him down to go on his merry
way. Please do not overuse this last technique. It will only
be necessary if you have a particularly strong-willed pup. Another
technique used by many people is to spray your hands with Bitter
Apple. Then when the puppy grabs your hands instead of the toy
you're holding he learns that hands taste nasty and it will discourage
him. A third technique you can try with a puppy that has a softer
temperament and gets the hint without escalating, is to tap him
on the nose gently when he bites. Only tap him hard enough to
get him to let go. When he lets go, tell him "good boy".
Whatever technique you use, be consistent with this training!
Even though puppies love to play rough, it is never a good idea
to wrestle or play tug of war with a puppy. This confuses the
puppy as to when he is allowed to use his teeth in play and when
he is not.
Socialization
This is an EXTREMELY
important part in the development of a PON. This point cannot
be stressed too much! From the time your PON comes home, you
should be making sure your puppy is exposed to lots of different
people and places. So as not to overwhelm your puppy, start out
slowly with 15-20 minute socializing sessions. Too much socialization
for a young puppy is as overwhelming as too many visitors can
be to a baby/toddler. They need their rest and down-time so as
not to become too over-stimulated. After your puppy has had all
its shots you can gradually take your puppy to new places. Parks,
the entrance to grocery stores, pet stores, and schools are all
good places where your puppy can meet lots of different people
in a short amount of time. Work your way up to 2 to 3 times a
week of exploring and continue this at least until your dog is
two years old. The longer you continue this practice the better!
Ask people to feed your puppy a treat that you provide. This
helps your puppy associate good things with meeting strangers.
The more experiences your puppy has with different people and
at different places the quicker he will warm up to strangers
he meets and the more adaptable he will become to new situations.
If your city or town has a place that teaches puppy socialization
classes, this is a marvelous way to get your puppy off to a good
start. Remember, much more often that not a PON is what you make
it. If you take the time to socialize your puppy he will become
a well adjusted mature adult who is a delight to live with.
Grooming
Because the PON is a long-haired
breed with a dense undercoat, it is important to establish a
grooming routine from the time your puppy is brought home from
the breeder. Using a table, whether it be a professional groomer's
table or a waist high table with a non-skid mat, is good for
several reasons. It will save you from getting a severe backache,
and your dog will learn that being placed on the table means
it's time to be groomed not to play. This will also make it much
easier for the dog and the professional groomer should you decide
to hire someone to do the job. As an alternative, you may lay
the dog on his side while you proceed first with one side and
then the other. A non-skid mat is important because if the table
surface is slick, the dog will slide which can cause him to panic.
Before you begin to groom your
dog, gather all the tools you will need to do the job: a good
quality metal comb, a poodle comb, a pin brush and/or mason pearson
brush and your detangler and /or spray conditioner. On puppies,
a small slicker brush can be used over most areas. Be careful
to use gentle easy strokes and keep your groom time to a minimum
at first. Use the comb to do the puppies face and legs. PONs
of any age hate to have their legs and feet handled so it's a
good idea to be especially gentle on those areas. Handle your
puppies feet regularly so they get used to the touch. This will
make it less distressing to the puppy when the hair starts to
grow longer and you must spend more time grooming the feet. As
the puppy gets older the comb and pin brush will be used predominantly
as the slicker brush tends to remove the fine undercoat which
is not desireable unless you do not intend to show your PON.
Begin by spraying your slicker or pin brush/mason pearson brush
with a fine mist of either water or a conditioning product. First
go over the coat with the pin brush to remove any loose hair.
Brush the coat in the opposite direction of how it grows. Then
take your comb and gather small sections, gently combing each
section starting from the tips and working toward the base of
the hair shaft to remove any matts. If you encounter any tiny
fuzzies too small to remove with the comb, you can remove these
gently with your slicker. Work across the dog in rows so as not
to miss any spots paying special attention to the arm pits, chest
and stomach areas.
If you come across any tough
to remove matts, you can try spraying the matt with one of the
many matt detanglers on the market to help in its removal. Some
people use a coupon-cutter or seam ripper to make several slits
in the matt starting near the skin to break it up. This helps
to remove the matt more easily but can also remove more of the
coat so may not be an appropriate method for the groomer of show
dogs.
Not all PONs require the same
amount of grooming time! Mostly black PONs seem to be the easiest
to groom as their undercoat tends to be less dense. Cream/tan
PONs are moderately difficult to main. White and chocolates have
the most dense undercoats and take much more time to maintain.
Of course, clipping your PON down in a "puppy cut"
keeps groom time down to a minimum. The condition of the coat
also makes a difference in the amount of groom time. While I
have not added it to my puppies' diets (discuss this with your
vet) the use of products such as "Bioderma", "Lipiderm"
or other food supplements containing omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids
in your adult dogs food can make a major difference in the coat
and skin condition of your dog. This virtually ELIMINATED the
itching and paw licking Casper experienced and dramatically decreased
the amount of time it takes me to groom her. Remember to use
these products as directed - more is not better and can do more
harm than good.
There is an article about canine coat and skin which goes into
alot of detail about proper bathing techniques with an overview
on grooming products to use for a beautiful coat at: http://www.duurstede.ca/articles2.html. It's worth
a look.
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